Call us on 01793 523244

www.microscooterstore.co.uk

Shopping Cart: £0.00

You have no items in your shopping cart.

MSS Custom Scooters

Uk Build Custom Scooters









To view our wide selection of Custom Scooters click the link below:

MSS UK built Custom Scooters

We appreciate that there is not always a factory or off the shelf push scooter for your needs. We also appreciate that choosing colours and being able to fully customise your ride to be as unique as possible is very important! 

Because of this we are able to custom build scooters in store 100% to your requirements, not what the manufacturers feel you should be riding straight out of a box. Our dedicated team of in store specialists know the ins and outs of all of our products and can assemble scooters to the highest precision. For more information and prices on a custom build please call us or email us using the contact us page in the top right.We can build from any parts you find on this website. If there is a specific item you already own but we do not supply let us know and we can centre a unique scooter around this. 
 
With custom scooters there are no limitations > Let the building begin!
 
When specc'ing your custom scooter you should consider the following parts, please note that depending on your custom scooter not all parts below will be required.

  • Scooter Deck/Footplate
  • Front Head Section 
  • Headset
  • Front Forks
  • 2 x Wheels
  • Rear Brake
  • T Bars
  • Clamp
  • Handle Bar Grips
  • Compression Kit
  • Grip Tape
  • Bolt Kit
  • Wheel Bearings
  • Front Axle Bolts
  • Rear Axle Bolts
  • Rear Axle Spacers
  • Wheel Spacers
 
Mod Agent Custom Scooter
 
Because there are so many parts that build up a micro scooter it can sometimes be confusing to know the official names of each item and what does what. Hopefully this guide will give you an insight into the push scooter world. 
 
Axle Spacers - These small cylindrical washers are found on the back axle of a micro scooter. They fill the space between the inside of the deck and the wheel/bearings. Without these your wheels would have far too much movement along the back axle and make your scooter unusable. This tiny part is often missed off peoples shopping lists when building custom scooters by mistake. 

Bars - These come in many shapes and sizes and are like the handle bars found on a bike or BMX. Depending on the model of scooter these could be fixed or adjustable in height. Most fixed bars come in around 19-21" high. There are many different styles of bars available on the market so you will often see the names vary, ie T Bars, Y Bars etc. This indicates the rough outline of the bars. 

Bar Ends -  Bar ends fit inside the end of your handle bars and on the end of your handle grips. These help protect your bars when your scooter hits the ground. It also prevents your grips from getting scuffed up and damaged. 

Bolt Kit - A bolt kit is required to fix a folding JD Bug or Razor scooter in the upright position. It is recommended to do this if the scooter is being used for jumping or tricks as it strengthens the front of the scooter and helps to eliminate some of the movement that you get as standard from the folding mechanism. 

Brake - The brake sits above the back wheel and is used for slowing down your scooter. It is more advisable to foot brake when travelling at speed as applying the brake heavily or often will result in wheels becoming degraded and possibly getting flat spots on the urethane. Most people riding trick scooters have the brake on the scooter to act as more of a wheel guard than as a means of stopping.

Compression Kit - A compression kit is used on a scooter to connect threadless forks to your handle bars. There are different types of compression system available so make sure you use the correct method for your scooter.

Deck/Footplate - The deck is central item of a scooter where you stand. These come in many different shapes, sizes and styles. Most freestyle scooter decks have an integrated head section which is welded onto the deck. 

Double Clamp - A double clamp is a two bolted system which wraps around the bottom of your bars, by tightening the bolts on the clamp each one a turn at a time the clamp tightens around the bar and top of the forks to keep the bars in place on the scooter. 

Flex Fender - This is a form of springless brake system for a micro scooter. The advantage of this type of brake is the reduced noise and wearing parts as there is no spring to rattle around. This results in a much quieter and smoother ride whilst performing tricks. 

Forks - The forks are fed through the head section of a scooter, through the headsection and into the base of the bars. The front wheel is attached to the base of the forks with a front axle bolt and can turn 360 degrees for whip and barspin tricks. Forks come in two options: Threaded and Threadless. 

Front/Head Section - The front section of a scooter is the part which connects the deck to the forks/headset/bars. Depending on the model of scooter the front section maybe integrated onto the deck. This would be referred to as a one piece deck where the headsection is welded on. On folding scooters such as the JD Bug Pro Street the head section is a separate part. This is less strong than a one piece option but can be bolted in the upright position to add strength. 

Front and Rear Axles - The front and rear axles are the thin bolts that screw through the middle of your wheel bearings and wheels and keep the wheels attached to your deck and forks. 

Grip Tape - The grip tape is the sand paper like material which is fitted to the deck of your scooter to provide grip whilst riding. It comes in many shapes and lengths and can be cut down to fit any scooter. The grip tape is sticky backed so you just peel off the back and fit it onto the deck. Do not fit new griptape to a damp deck or over old grip as it will not stick. 

Handle Bar Grips - The handle grips attach to both ends of the handle bars and give a firm, and grippy hold to the scooter. Most handlegrips will fit most scooters, they are available as foam and rubber options with the later being more durable. Some handle bar grips also come with separate end caps which go inside the end of the bars to protect the grips when the scooter is dropped. Some skate parts require grips with bar ends to protect the ramps.  

Headset Bearings - These are what makes up a standard headset on most entry level/intermediate scooters such as the JD Bugs, Razor Ultra Pros, Madd Teams and more! Unfortunately they are normally the cheapest part on most complete scooters and like all moving parts will require regular maintenance or replacements. For such a small part they do most the work on your scooter. 

HIC - Hidden internal compression is where a starnut is placed into the top of fork. A HIC shim is then placed over the fork, a top cap then sits on top of the shim where a bolt is then fed through and tightened down. 

Inverted CompressionThis form of compression involves a starnut that is fitted into the inside of your handle bars, a long threaded nut is then fed upwards through the base of your forks, through your headset and into the star nut. Once fully tightened this gives you a really secure and direct ride for your scooter. 

Metal Core Wheels 
- Alloy wheels refer the the inside material used for the "hub" of your wheel. Metal core wheels are much stronger than standard plastic wheels and are designed for maximum performance on trick scooters and in skate parks. If you often bust plastic wheels or pop spokes we would advise these as a much stronger option. These are available in 100mm and 110mm.Plastic Core Wheels - Plastic wheels are the standard for most entry level scooters. Although the outer PU is to the same standard as the metal wheels the insides are much weaker. If you are doing tricks on your scooter we recommend upgrading to metal core wheels. These are available in 100mm and 110mm.

Quad Clamp - A quad clamp is a four bolted system which wraps around the bottom of your bars, by tightening the bolts on the clamp each one a turn at a time the clamp tightens around the bar and top of the forks to keep the bars in place on the scooter. Because the clamp is bigger and contains more bolts than smaller single and double clamps you can get an even tighter grip around the bars.

SCS - This is the standard compression system. This system works by entering a star nut into the top of your forks, a bolt is placed through the spacer which sits on a lip inside the SCS and is tightened down. The bars are then place into the top of the SCS and tightened. You must not have a slit in the bottom of your bars for this system. You can cut your bars down by around 1/2 inches as using this type of system makes you bars 2" higher any way. 

Stunt Pegs - Stunt pegs are used for stalling on the coping or grinding in parks and on the street. There are a few options available from Swish, 81 Custom, Madd and Blunt to name a few! The cheaper pegs fit onto the scooter using your existing axle bolts. Pegs such as the 81 Custom's come with new replacement high tensile axle bolts which screw into the peg. These are much more durable, harder wearing and require far less maintenance. 

Threaded Forks - These are the original industry standard for most push scooters. Because the top of the fork is threaded the forks simply screw into the bottom of your handle bars. This is a cheap system to maintain and replace and is found on scooters such as the JD Bug's , Madd Team Edition and Razor Ultra Pro. 

Threadless Forks - Threadless forks give a much more security to your scooter. They are generally more expensive forks initially because they are a higher quality and more premium item. They will also required a threadless headset and compression kit to fit onto your bars. Because of the compression kit you can get the forks extremely tight onto the scooter with no movement which you do get from cheaper headsets on threaded forks. 

Threadless Headset - A threadless headset is used for upgrading from a non sealed headset or for use with threadless forks. It is possible to use a threadless headset with threaded forks by using one of your existing headset bolts to clamp the headset down. These are a far more premium form of headset similar to what is found in BMX and mountain bikes. They can be tightened so that there is no movement or wobble in the bars.